Cable cast-on
Work each new stitch out of the gap between the last two stitches. You get a firm, rope-like edge and never have to measure a tail.
Updated August 13, 2026·5 min read
The cable cast-on makes each new stitch out of the space between the last two stitches on the needle. The edge comes out firm and slightly corded, and you don't measure a tail — you can cast on 300 stitches without doing arithmetic first.
That makes it the one to reach for when you need to add stitches mid-project: buttonholes, sleeve underarms, the second half of a thumb gusset.
The steps
- 1Make a slipknot and put it on the left needle. Knit into it and place the new loop back onto the left needle, without twisting. You now have two stitches.
- 2Slide the right needle tip into the gap between those two stitches, front to back.
- 3Wrap the working yarn around the right needle as if to knit.
- 4Draw the wrap back through the gap toward you, so a new loop sits on the right needle.
- 5Slip that loop onto the left needle, keeping it untwisted. That's one cast-on stitch.
- 6Repeat steps 2 through 5 until you have the count you need.
Cable vs knitted vs long-tail
| Cast-on | Edge | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Cable | Firm, corded, low stretch | Buttonholes, adding stitches mid-row, firm hems |
| Knitted | Soft, medium stretch | Beginners, edges you'll pick up from later |
| Long-tail | Neat, medium stretch | Almost every project start |
| German twisted | Very stretchy | Sock and hat cuffs |
Cable and knitted are the same motion apart from where the needle enters. If your pattern doesn't say which, it usually doesn't matter for a flat piece.
Adding stitches mid-row
When a pattern says "cast on 6 stitches at the end of the next row," work to the end, turn, then cable cast on six with the working yarn. The firm edge is exactly what you want across an underarm, because it won't gape when the seam takes weight.
For a one-row buttonhole, bind off three, then cable cast on three over the gap on the way back. The corded edge stops the buttonhole stretching out of shape after a month of use.
If it goes wrong
- The edge is so tight you can't work row one.
- You're pulling the loop snug after transferring it. Seat it against the needle and leave it. Casting on over a needle a size up also works.
- The stitches twist as you transfer them.
- Slip the new loop onto the left needle so its right leg sits in front. Twisting happens when you rotate the loop rather than sliding it across tip to tip.
- The last stitch of the cast-on is loose.
- Normal. Knit it together with nothing — just tug the working yarn on the first row and carry on. The looseness disappears once the edge is under tension.